NYC summers can be quite sticky and oppressive—and on those days, I pretty much live in my cotton block print dresses from India.
I particularly love Bagru prints. They were granted a geographical indication (GI) in 2024, which officially recognizes their local heritage and unique characteristics. The dyes used are derived from natural sources like plants and minerals: true indigo for blue, madder root for red, and iron filings for black.
Artisans use hand-carved blocks to apply the dye directly to fabric, and they also use resist techniques—for which Bagru is especially known. This "Dabu" method is a mud-resist process, where the wooden blocks are dipped into a paste of clay, gum, and wheat powder, and pressed onto the fabric. The paste prevents the dye from penetrating, creating a pattern when the fabric is dyed.
A kaftan I own, featuring a Bagru print using Dabu resist method.